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The Smuggler's Journal

Rub of the Week: Deep Bush Horopito Is the Wild Card Your Lamb Needed

Rub of the Week: Deep Bush Horopito Is the Wild Card Your Lamb Needed

by Darryl Rubb 05 Oct 2026 0 comments
Green-brown horopito rub sprinkled onto two raw lamb backstraps on a board

⚓ SMUGGLER'S LOG — ENTRY No. 467
Dated this 5th day of October, 2026.

Today I thought we'd hooked something off the back of the ute — turned out to be a crate that had slid clean off a trailer at the lights, and inside it, a shaker of something I'd never smuggled before: a rub built around a native New Zealand pepper tree I'd only ever read about in old pitmaster folklore.

No crime scene, no drama — just a very lucky Tuesday. The crate belonged to Stef the Maori, and the shaker in question is Deep Bush Savoury with Horopito. I cracked the lid in the ute and the whole cab smelled like a walk through the bush after rain. That's not a sentence I get to write often.

What's actually in the shaker

Horopito is the native pepper tree of Aotearoa — proper bush ingredient, not a marketing word. Stef's built Deep Bush around it with salt, sugar, garlic, onion, paprika, red bell pepper and parsley over a rice flour base, and it reads exactly like that going on: savoury and herbaceous up front, warming through paprika and capsicum in the middle, then the horopito does its slow thing — not a hit, a creep. It builds rather than bites.

It's mild, about a 3 out of 10, and it's vegan-friendly — though the label carries the standard trace warning for gluten, soy, milk and peanuts, so if that matters at your table, give the physical pack a look before you serve it. No added MSG, for what that's worth to you.

Where it earns its keep is lamb, venison and other game — meats with enough character to stand up to something this wild — though it's just as happy dusted over roast spuds or root veg. I ran it on lamb backstrap and I'm not going back to plain salt and pepper in a hurry.

The recipe — Horopito-Crusted Lamb Backstrap

Serves 2–3 · Prep 10 min (plus a 20 min rest at room temp) · Cook 12 min · Total ~45 min
Gear: cast-iron pan or a hot grill plate, meat thermometer, foil

Ingredients

Method

  1. Bring the lamb to room temperature. Pat dry, rub all over with the oil, then coat generously with Deep Bush. Press it in — don't just dust it.
  2. Get the pan properly hot — you want it audibly angry when the lamb goes in.
  3. Sear 3–4 minutes a side, turning once, until a dark crust forms. Add the butter and garlic in the last minute and baste.
  4. Pull at 54–56°C internal for medium-rare (check with a thermometer, not a guess) and rest, loosely tented in foil, for a full 10 minutes before slicing against the grain.

Sliced horopito-crusted lamb backstrap with roast potatoes and rocket

Darryl's tip: rest game and lamb a touch longer than you think you need to — a full 10 minutes, not the usual five — so the juices actually settle before the knife goes in.

Two seared lamb backstraps resting beside a cast iron pan of garlic butter

The Smuggler's Secret

Deep Bush isn't just a meat rub. A proper pinch stirred through softened butter and smeared on warm sourdough does something unreasonable to a cheese board — the horopito warmth plays beautifully against a sharp cheddar or a washed-rind. Off the books, but you'll thank me.

Grab the gear

Build the whole plate: baste the rested lamb with a little Fancy Hank's Coffee & Molasses BBQ Sauce for a dark, savoury lacquer, then spoon on Drunken Sailor Onion, Cranberry & Bourbon Relish to cut the richness. The full bush stash lives in the Stef the Maori collection.

Reader level: Backyard — no matter where you are on the journey, we've got you.

The Rub Smuggler medallion - 173 proud carving lamb leg

Right, that crate's going back on the trailer before anyone notices it's lighter than it was. Keep the horopito for the meat that can handle it.
— "Deep Bush" Darryl ⚓ The whole haul's at the Rub Hub →

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